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We start outside the Corn Exchange in the market place. Head south,
keeping the town hall on your right. Keep straight on down St Mary's street past
the roundabout with the Green Tree public house on the left. On the right, just
past the turning to Mill lane can be seen the filled in remains of the Millbrook
which formed a wet moat around the old town. This was the site of the south gate.
Opposite is the site of the old Mill. In the 15th century it was called Prince's
Mill. St Johns road is on your right. The green and the 3 cottages on the right
are on the site of St Johns hospital with early references back to the 13th century.
On the right of the cottages is a lane called Squires Walk, once called Lovers
lane. This used to be the southern route out of the town. Opposite the cottages
on the other side of the road are the Almshouses, which are still in use. Built
by William Angier and Mary, his sister in 1681. Note that all the Tudor Rose motifs
are upside down! Next-door is Wallingford police station.
Cross the road here and continue down to the entrance of Wallingford hospital.
Again, cross the road and walk down the lane keeping the brook on your right.
Continue down till you come to the river Thames. On your left is the ferry house.
Note the flood mark plaques of 1894 and 1947 on the left pillar. From the lawn
on the rivers edge a ferry was run across the river until 1953. Here too was the
site of Chalmore lock. The date of the first lock here is not known but in 1838
a new low water lock was built. In the same year a ferry house was built but was
burnt down in the 1920s when the current one was built. According to records,
the fall in the lock was never more than 2 feet. A few years later the Great Western
Railway had taken over most of the river barge's business. Removal of the lock
was in 1883. Jerome K Jerome mentioned this in the book "Three men in a boat".
On the far bank was Wallingford's only golf course. Heading north walk on past
the ferry house until you come to the wide-open space of Oxford University boat
club. Originally built for building Bailey bridges in the last war it was taken
over in mid 1960's by Maid boats, the largest hire boat firm on the Thames. At
the end of the concrete, at the rivers edge, can be seen a footpath. Follow this
for about 30 metres. As you leave the narrow path behind the laurel hedge on your
left belongs to St Lucian's, a Tudor House with it's own adjoining malt house
which can be seen further on. On the right can be seen a passage going between
2 houses. Look down on the right wall for a metal plaque showing the flood level
in 1894.
After crossing the small bridge over the town ditch, St Leonard's church can be
seen to the left. This is the oldest remaining church in the town. Norman herringbone
pattern in the stonework can be seen above the door on the north side. A nature
walk around the church ground can be taken. Much damage by fire was done to the
church in the civil war. The tower was added in the year 1849. Walk north along
Thames Street noting after 60 metres the house on the right once occupied by G.D.Leslie
RA. 3 buildings farther on, on the same side is Cromwell lodge. Opposite, there
used to be a thriving cattle market that is now a car park.
The next building on the right is now Wallingford's rowing club, once a malt house,
as can be seen from the vent on the south side of the roof. This was one of about
13 malt houses in Wallingford in the 19ct. The large pillars and gate on the north
side of the row of cottages belong to Castle Priory. This was built for Sir William
Blackstone the famous judge and the author of "Commentaries on the laws of
England" in 1759. The kink in the road in front of you was caused when the
judge wanted to increase the size of his garden, the road being moved several
metres to the west. Head north. After about 50 metres on your left is a part brick,
part flint wall. Here under the road is a tunnel where the judge could get to
more of his gardens without crossing the road. Now, sadly blocked up.
On I50 metres, on at the corner of Thames Street and St Peters Street is an interesting
flint built house. On the right with grounds down to the river is Bridge house.
The church next is St Peter's. Being rebuilt in 1769 after its destruction during
the siege of Wallingford's great castle, the fine spire was added in 1777. Judge
Blackstone is buried in the family vault here. St Peter's is now in the control
of the Redundant Churches Fund. On the other side of the road is the Baptist church.
Built in 1794 it is still in use today. Retrace your steps 50 metres, head west
along St Peter's street to the junction with Wood St. Turn left. Note the fine
houses on the left. On the right is a small passage way called Mousey lane, no
doubt named because the right side of the lane housed the Corn exchange, built
in 1856. It is the now the home of the local amateur dramatic society the Sinodun
players. Walk to the end. You are now back from where you set out.
© 2003 Tony Morris.
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